REUBEN SELBY’S ‘THE WILL TO FORM’ — A STORY FOR OUR CULTURE, TOLD BY OUR COMMUNITY
Photography By Rhys Williams
When you think of the word ‘fashion’, what comes to mind? Physical garments used to express yourself and who you are? Reuben Selby’s ‘The Will to Form’ AW22 show asked one very simple question, why stop there?
Set in three interconnected rooms, with limestone, grass and sand as the ground the models would parade upon, the show was the climax of a five-day takeover of The Copeland Gallery, Peckham, where eight artists were invited to create in an open studio the public were free to walk into and explore.
To just say his show was a success would be a disservice to the precedent he is setting, not only for himself, but for the fashion industry as a whole. Not only was it an experience, but it was a self-fulfilling prophecy. Simultaneously combining art, clothing, music, movement and much, much more it was a reminder of the importance of creativity being limitless, and a statement that Reuben Selby really walks the walk that he talks, redefining history in the process.
Although I am by no means a fashion expert - this was my first time attending a LFW show in fact - I was moved. By the set design, the multiple moving parts, with dancers, models and artists all existing within the same physical space, I can’t say what I was expecting but it certainly wasn’t that. My appreciation for Abdourahman Njie, better known as Yagamoto, ever grows, as I can’t imagine carving out a career as a movement director was easy, but I’m able to recognise movements with his influence once I see them, a testament to the freedom he continually expresses.
When moments like this happen, it’s easy to hold onto the mic, and tell the story of what you’ve seen, without being able to truly interrogate all it’s intricate layers. It’d be easy for us to speak about the excellence witnessed at Reuben Selby’s AW22 show. Rather than do that, I thought best we let all the stars who we’re blessed to have as part of our family tell the story for us through quotes spoken in conversation.
Each individual quoted below played their part in making ‘The Will to Form’ an experience that touched me, beyond the fabric of some amazing clothing that was also on display.
Speaking to the designer himself, Reuben Selby, one of our Fashion features in Issue 2 ‘Growth’, minutes before the show, we spoke about this show in particular having less looks compared to his previous LFW show ‘CLASH’, and why he felt the need to slow things down: “Focus. I feel like the first three shows are really just letting everything out. This show is taking steps backwards.”
Focus. We could’ve got this piece out the day after the show, aware that with many of these things, speed is key to beat the noise. But with a clear focus and understanding of what it is you’re doing and why, moments like this often leave you speechless, until you’re able to process them fully, and tell the story from an angle that emits at a different frequency.
“Community is at the core of everything I do. Even though the brand has got my name on it, it’s actually just a vehicle to let other people express themselves,” says Reuben. Truly creating a platform for members of his community to take control of their own narratives, and explore beyond the bounds this world constantly attempts to project upon us, this show was nothing but a testament to the deep dedication and understanding of one’s craft, which Reuben possesses infinitely.
Reuben Selby (the brand) is the product of collaboration and confidence Reuben not only has, but also passes on. It is about connections with like-minded individuals and in his own words, “It's all about expressionism. Just a desire to create. In all senses, so it translates to all forms, whether that's art, or whether that's movement, or the actual clothes.” It’s why Reuben has created such strong relationships with many ambitious individuals, and one individual we spent plenty of time talking about was the show’s creative director, TJ Sawyerr: “I've known TJ since he was 14, 15,” says Reuben. “It wasn't necessarily set in stone or planned. I’m not talking as if he needs my support. I just saw that he was ready to do something like this.”
Getting his haircut as we speak nearly 2 years after our conversation for his Issue 1 ‘New Beginnings’ cover, TJ Sawyerr, now still only 19-years-old, is hours away from becoming the youngest ever creative director of a British Fashion Council certified runway show at London Fashion Week.
TJ shares: “There wasn't really an interest there for this sort of 17-year-old kid who had this big idea that seemed somewhat unrealistic,” he says. “You guys [Gauchoworld], obviously were kind of the first, to really tap into this new direction that I was trying to take.”
Although still yet to fully comprehend what it is he and Reuben had created, and the effect it could have upon watchers and the industry as a whole, TJ reflects on his journey. He says: “I've kind of just gone and done everything I said I’d do. I have shown myself to be an individual who at 19 can work far beyond the bounds of what a teenager should be capable of in terms of societal conventions.”
And not only the creative director of the show, TJ also walked in it, once again redefining what it means to be a model, defying the superficial assumptions placed upon the job title. It’s why we spoke to TJ in the first place, he’s a modern day activist, and has always been unapologetic in his pursuit of a unique career that continuously challenges him, but also uplifts various members of his community too. Speaking on the importance of breaking down doors but also leaving them open, TJ said: “And for all involved in the cast, I’ve brought my people in the cast, all of whom I've worked with before. It’s a real family affair. That's reflected in the energy here that starts from Reuben showing faith in myself and wittles down to my desire to keep it internal and make sure that the mandem are being elevated and I think that's what you'll see tonight in an excellent fashion.”
Alignment. Although these words come from the mouth of TJ, they resonate with me as we view Gauchoworld as a family, where freedom is welcomed and expression is celebrated. Speaking now after seeing the show, witnessing the commotion that goes on behind the scenes to get to a point where you can deliver such a beautiful show is complementary to the elation once it’s completed.
And you can’t have a good show without good music. Music and fashion have continuously overlapped, and whilst some naysayers may suggest that musicians should ‘stay in their lane’, this show was a further reminder of the beauty that can ensue when two, or more, stars collide.
Having his shine felt in the Midlands and beyond, burning brightly is Leicester’s very own Sainté, who’s looking to continue his monumental growth post-lockdown. On his mission to bend all the rules, he said, “I like pushing boundaries. I’m from Leicester so apparently I’m not meant to be here right now, so I just like proving people wrong.” None other than our Issue 2 Music Cover star, fresh off his sold out tour, walking majestically in his debut LFW show. Going from strength to strength in his pursuit of rejecting any confines that might be projected upon him, his parting words for our conversation was to “Expect the unexpected.”
Providing the live vocals to the show was the north-west London living, French and English rapping rising star Feux, who spoke about his LFW experience saying, “I wouldn’t be here without collaboration and community. I’ve spent a lot of time on my own, but when I come together with others, it opens whole new doors and realms, today being a perfect example of that.” Previewing music from his upcoming album as the soundtrack for ‘The Will to Form’, it’s great to see the soft spoken and very smiley character flourishing, on a stage that is built upon the foundations of what is most important to us: community, cooperation and freedom to tell a story via whichever means you see fit, regardless of how you have done so before.
Producer, artist and responsible for an amazing score of the show, bb is the super calm character quietly making his vibrations felt. “We're just trying to help each other. If you're about putting in the work, and you're good at your craft. You're gonna win if you're around these guys.” With a previous working relationship with many of the previously mentioned individuals, entrusted with a core part of the show, he executed perfectly. Although he might not get the same camera time as some of the more prominent individuals, he is someone who loves his job, and it is reflected in the quality of production we have come to expect from him.
Coming from Portsmouth originally, his growth during lockdown has enabled him to move into the big city, physically connect with individuals, like Sainté, who he previously had strong virtual relationships with. With the common ground being the love for music, he is now able to continue to move from strength to strength, be a part of amazing moments like this, and we know as we return to a new normal post-pandemic, bb’s name is one that is going to be escaping the lips of many, and his sound is going to be appreciated by the ears of even more.
These are three musicians who are paving their own careers, tailoring each detail to their preference. Whilst outside talk may have spoken against them being here, exploring a multitude of creative avenues, TJ puts it perfectly, explaining that: “We are confined by no bounds and defined by no sounds.” This is a boundless group of individuals who will not only go far, but will continue to shatter any glass ceilings projected onto them.
The genius concept that is ‘The Will to Form’ is everything aforementioned. Happy to take the backseat and use his brand as a platform to spotlight creative liberation, it’s high time Reuben was given his flowers for masterminding the shared experience that went down on February 19th.
“I basically need to focus to then come back even stronger. So that's the plan,” says Reuben. If ‘The Will to Form’ was the first stage of that, then we’re excited to see where Reuben Selby ends up taking his brand, there’s no doubt that it will continue to move from strength to strength.