DEEPER THREADS — KEEPING MASSIMO OSTI’S LEGACY ALIVE
After beginning the archive and publishing a book that celebrated his father’s work, Lorenzo and Agata Osti, alongside others, began to question what a future looked like for their father’s legacy.
“That was the challenge. We’re not designers, me and my sister are not my Dad, but the best thing we realised we can do is push the boundaries in the same way he did.”
SAINTWOODS & APT 200: KEEPING THE ‘LIFE’ IN LIFESTYLE FOR OVER A DECADE
Their love for what they do and the people they meet keeps them going and growing. “Fundamentally, a lot of people feel underserved by the nightlife offerings in their cities. The community we speak to, there’s lots of good parties around the world for them, but there’s not a lot of good venues that want the person who wants to wear 800 dollar sweatpants, a cap, and considers themselves a creative.” It’s how they’ve managed to grow from running the show at Suwu, to now having three different APT 200 locations – Montreal, Toronto and Los Angeles – by continuing to serve that community that has grown with them.
LOCAL FOR LIFE — SAINTÉ FOR THE JD AND NEW BALANCE 1906 CAMPAIGN
The next drop on Sainté’s calendar is the JD + New Balance 1906, who he’s the face of, starring in the campaign alongside some of his longtime friends. “When I’m working with anyone, it’s always about building that relationship first, and none of my relationships are fake,” Sainté says, not just on his personal relationships, but also on the relationship he’s built with New Balance, “It’s not random at all, the love and support is real, it’s there.” It’s highly likely to catch Sainté in a pair of NBs on any given day, and as we sit in his flat, there’s New Balance trainers dotted around, and he can pick up each one and tell you a little bit about it and why he likes it.
EN FACE ARE BRINGING FASHION CLOSER TO HOME
After the shutters closed on a wholesome evening hosted by Gauchoworld in En Face, I sat down to speak to both Jacks and Ben about En Face, which was kept warm by familiar faces, even on a chilly winter evening.
PASTDOWN ID: A STORY OF REFERENCE AND REFLECTION
In the last five years, the founders of online store PASTDOWN, have come a long way. On face value, PASTDOWN is a catalogue of designer and sportswear products. From well known brands to regional gems, the pair serve a nostalgic generation that, just like the founders themselves, “are looking to own things they couldn’t get when they were younger”. As we converse in the PASTDOWN stockroom, it’s clear the brand is an ode to everything that the boys love, giving them an excuse to spend time researching and sharing their ever-evolving yet ever-present love for fashion.
For ourselves firstly, we just wanted to always be repping the perfect tracksuit.” And a year and a half later after initial discussions, the first drop from PASTDOWN INTEGRATED DESIGN is ready – an amalgamation of “referencing everything we like, putting it into one product.”
NO ‘I’ IN TEAM: MEET THE HEROES BEHIND THE NAMESAKE SS24 SHOW
Set in a school hall in the shadow of the Musée de l’Armée, we walked around with Hugo Lecot, who is the show’s connecting glue, unbound by a single title that could describe his contribution. On our journey through the backstage area, we met with a selection of people who are integral to the success of the show, and in helping the family brand, founded by three brothers - Richard, Michael and Steve Hsieh - who are originally from Taiwan, turn heads in the European market.
“A SPACE WHERE PEOPLE CAN COME AND LEARN”: ARMAND DA SILVA FOR FOOTPATROL AND JORDAN
To describe exactly where we are speaking, it’s easier to start from the beginning to understand how we got here, in a space filled with all of his “passions and interests in one place”. Whilst his love of photography came first, Armand always had an interest in design. “You know when you’re young and people ask ‘What do you want to be when you’re older?’ My answer would always be an architect…That never happened,” Armand explains. Although it wasn’t meant to be his profession, he kept it as a hobby —taking an interest in interior design and furniture more generally.
“I’VE NEVER HAD AN INTEREST IN JUST MAKING SOMETHING GOOD.”: BIOR ELLIOT FOR FOOTPATROL AND JORDAN
A story about Bior Elliott could be told through the unfinished books he’s written. Although now recognised as an art director and designer, his first creative explorations came through writing words on a page. Before long, those musings became lyrics in a song, and Bior was making music with his friends as part of a collective. Without a doubt, some artists focus solely on what happens within the four walls of a booth, but for Bior, he always had an obsession with how his collective was branded, ensuring that their message was being portrayed both sonically and visually.
“THERE’S SO MANY PEOPLE TO PLEASE ON A SET. I HELP TO BUILD THAT BRIDGE”: EMMANUELLE LOCA FOR FOOTPATROL AND JORDAN
In addition to ensuring her voice is heard, she feels a massive part of her role is to empower models, as she’s “been there” herself, so she knows “how they feel”. An unquestionably empathetic being, Manu believes part of her job is to give models licence to express themselves, the same way a set designer, a stylist, a director is encouraged to. “It’s about giving models freedom, allowing them to be more than just a mannequin,”.
“I NEED TO WRITE A BACKGROUND INTO MY PLATE”: DIADIÉ DIOMBANA FOR FOOTPATROL AND JORDAN
Showcased for only a week in a restaurant in Châtelet, it was so successful that Diadié decided to continue it at another location to match a fraction of the demand that came his way. “It was really enjoyable and motivating to do the [first] pop up,” says Diadié. “It sold out in 24 hours. A French chef owns this restaurant [Sélune, the location of his second pop-up] and he gave it to me for two weeks, and so far it’s been amazing.”
ALL STAR FILMMAKER IBRAHIM MUHAMMAD IS REWRITING THE SCRIPT WITH CONVERSE AND JOHN BOYEGA
Meet Ibrahim K. Muhammad, who alongside fellow filmmakers Ade Femzo, Kaylen Francis, Kemi Anna Adeeko and Lorraine Khamali, is part of Converse’ ‘Create Next’ Film Project - The community-driven initiative aimed at bringing the next generation of Black filmmakers into the spotlight by giving them the resources and mentorship to create a five-minute short film.
DOING GOOD WITH CHELI GHARTI
From Nepal to Hackney via Wales and Winchester, meet Cheli Gharti, who created GOOD WORKSHOP with a simple goal in mind: “It’s very hard to change the world just by myself. It’s just adding a little bit of goodness to what I do.” After studying Fashion design in Winchester then going on to work as a seamstress for a few fashion companies, lockdown was the game changer.
“IT’S ALL ABOUT REPURPOSE” – THIS UNIFORM’S ESME MARSH ON BREAKING NEW GROUND
Each piece is designed with functionality in mind. Esme buys the most ethical fabric possible – hand-dyed and locally sourced – and utilises off-cuts at each stage of the production process. The result is high quality, versatile clothing that marries form with functionality; “All the items can be worn with each other, everything should be super durable, super considered, and modular.”
REUBEN SELBY’S ‘THE WILL TO FORM’ — A STORY FOR OUR CULTURE, TOLD BY OUR COMMUNITY
When you think of the word ‘fashion’, what comes to mind? Physical garments used to express yourself and who you are? Reuben Selby’s ‘The Will to Form’ AW22 show asked one very simple question, why stop there? Set in three interconnected rooms, with limestone, grass and sand as the ground the models would parade upon, the show was the climax of a five-day takeover of The Copeland Gallery.
MEET EMILY MACFIE THE TALENTED DESIGNER BEHIND AI MEI LI
Whilst Instagram became a haven for people monetising their hobbies’ during the first UK lockdown, one designer caught Y2K fashion lovers’ attention through shredding, braiding and reconstructing clothing she had in the depths of her closet at home. Emily Macfie, the 23-year-old behind Ai Mei Li who began reworking second hand tops into one-of-a-kind garments.
AELIZA’S DEBUT SENSORY INSTALLATION IN RETROSPECT
A normal party would’ve been good enough, sure, but with the application of some Aeliza branded eyeglasses, the experience was taken to a whole new realm. When you’re as calculated as Jack Harper and Nosa Aiworo of Aeliza are, what went down on Saturday night was inevitable.
GAUCHOWORLD MEETS MULTI-DISCIPLINARY CREATIVE JERMINE CHUA
For many young creatives, now is an exciting yet frightening time to be entering the industry. In the current climate where creatives and people in the arts sector have been encouraged by the UK government to ‘retrain’ professionally, and when formal education has been pushed online - some moments seem like an endurance test.
A CHAT WITH ALEXANDRA VITALIS, THE FOUNDER OF HOODPIERCED
I was struck by two things. Firstly, the photos of her clients with their new piercings were like a form of portraiture, captured by a little Canon M10 and displayed on the hall of fame of her feed. Secondly, I noticed a real sense of community, with clients showing their gratitude in the comments and
IN CONVERSATION WITH SOPHIA TASSEW, FOUNDER OF KHULA
The first thing Sophia Tassew (also known as @manlikesophia and founder of London-based jewellery brand KHULA) said to me on the phone was that she was getting a new puppy delivered around the same time we were meant to be doing this interview. She sounded frantic yet excited; you could tell she was really looking forward to adding a new member to her family.
IN CONVERSATION WITH THE BOYS BEHIND WALL STREET MAFIA
In celebration of Wall Street Mafia’s latest drop coming to their store today, we thought it was only right we sat down and chopped it up with Haroun, Kehinde, Moses and Teni - the boys behind the brand taking London, and beyond, by storm. By no means has it been a linear journey to establish the brand, it’s been a series of ups and downs that have seen the brand becoming more than just that.