NO ‘I’ IN TEAM: MEET THE HEROES BEHIND THE NAMESAKE SS24 SHOW
Paris Fashion Week is always a highpoint in the general Fashion calendar, and June 2023 in the city of love was no different. Over the month, French Pride celebrations collided with Fête de la Musique, with street parties, parades, and of course fashion shows, keeping the city awake.
Amongst the Fashion Week rush, with people buzzing from place to place, we found ourselves wandering backstage in what felt like a paradoxical world of calm; some hours before the NAMESAKE SS24 show. No irony in the fact then, that the whole theme of the collection, and the corresponding show, was an exploration of time, inspired by a fictional meeting with a time traveller.
Set in a school hall in the shadow of the Musée de l’Armée, we walked around with Hugo Lecot, who is the show’s connecting glue, unbound by a single title that could describe his contribution. On our journey through the backstage area, we met with a selection of people who are integral to the success of the show, and in helping the family brand, founded by three brothers - Richard, Michael and Steve Hsieh - who are originally from Taiwan, turn heads in the European market.
With so much focus on what’s new or groundbreaking at fashion week shows, the beauty of a NAMESAKE show is that, when looking at the people involved, not much changes. Take Aymane Alhamid, who’s walked in the show for three consecutive seasons, and is someone who Hugo clearly has lots of love for. “Most of the time, it’s the same guys we’re using in the shows, the same team, it’s a bit of a family affair,” says Hugo.
As Hugo introduces us to Anton Mebarki and Nicolas Bianciotto, Casting Directors, who play an fundamental role in the perennial nature of the shows, the love for Hugo, and NAMESAKE reverberates through. “I like the vision, the design, Hugo showed me where they’re going,” Nicolas tells me. “For us, this is part of our culture, helping younger brands, helping friends, because the Parisian market is a tough market,” he says. “Not everyone does that though!” Hugo interjects. He doesn’t take Anton and Nicolas’ willingness to help for granted, but knows it’s because of the strong foundations he’s set from the beginning.
“It’s our third show now, you see the evolution, and every time it’s stepped up,” says Anton.“When you’re part of that process, and see it from the beginning, it feels like a huge accomplishment.” Anton originally entered the modelling business after being spotted on the street, and speaks passionately about keeping model teams diverse. “You’re trying to get people to relate, and if every model is a white caucasian dude with blue eyes, you’ve lost that. We’re celebrating the differences individuals have. That’s what fashion is all about, that’s what we’re all about, that’s what NAMESAKE is about, so everything just aligns.”
As a family unit that continues to grow, there’s always the will to seek alliance with those who share that aligned vision. Take Jamie-Maree Shipton, lead stylist, who looks to partner the collection with external designers, strengthening the internal message NAMESAKE looks to share.“I always make sure there's a collaboration in there. Last season, we did jewellery, this season, we did belts and ties. I think there always needs to be some kind of outside collaboration happening to uplift what we're doing internally. And we often work with newer designers for those things, which I also think is super important,” says Jamie, who Hugo introduces me to as someone who’s “been there from day one”.
A newer addition to this “family” Hugo describes, is Fred Owusu, a Ghanaian-Italian creative who admired Hugo’s work, and wanted to learn more about creative direction, especially in the sphere of shows. “I just reached out to Hugo. My thought was, if he says yes, then great, if not, then at least I tried,” and witnessing Fred’s drive and willingness to contribute and learn, there was only ever going to be one answer. “That’s the crazy thing,” says Hugo “Obviously I respect that some people aren’t willing to work ‘for free’ to get experience, but I feel differently, and I even still do it sometimes. It also proves as a case study because now he’s with us for the second time and he’s an important part of the team.”
As one of the brand's founders said to me in a passing conversation, “time is a luxury”. Your time would’ve been well spent sitting on the benches of Lycée Victor Drury as the NAMESAKE SS24 show played out, scored by none other than Parisian music collective 99GINGER, who Hugo identified as the appropriate tastemakers to join the NAMESAKE journey this season.