IN CONVERSATION WITH SOPHIA TASSEW, FOUNDER OF KHULA
Photography By Vicky Grout
The first thing Sophia Tassew (also known as @manlikesophia and founder of London-based jewellery brand KHULA) said to me on the phone was that she was getting a new puppy delivered around the same time we were meant to be doing this interview. She sounded frantic yet excited; you could tell she was really looking forward to adding a new member to her family. You can also tell she had a lot of other responsibilities alongside running her successful and eclectic jewellery brand KHULA. Already making a name for itself, KHULA makes squiggly earrings a wardrobe essential! All products are handmade, polished and packaged by Sophia Tassew. It’s surprising to think this young jewellery designer has time for anything else, (let alone getting a new pup). When we got settled into the interview I was finally able to ask the burning question that is most certainly on all of your minds…
VM: What kind of puppy is it?
ST: We got a Jack Russell, it’s the tiniest baby!
VM: You must be so excited to have such a cute new addition to the family!?
ST: Yes we really are, we’ve never had a dog so this will be a new experience for sure.
VM: So how did KHULA come about? Tell me about that journey.
ST: I’ve always been interested in art and things that make a person stand out. And for many years, I’ve always wanted to have something of my own that I personally designed, whether it was clothes or jewellery, I thought it would come about as a collaboration with someone else but I guess it didn’t turn out that way. Being at home during lockdown number 1 forced out a bit of creativity within me which I never knew I had. I learned how to make earrings on Youtube from scratch, so it was all very DIY. And my background in advertising really helped me formulate my vision for KHULA as a brand.
It hasn’t all been plain sailing though as with any new venture it involved a lot of trial and error. And huge amounts of hard work! It’s been very frustrating at times as the earrings weren’t turning out the way I wanted them to be initially. It was me versus my laptop in my room, which turned into a makeshift stockroom. Fast forward to a few months it has developed into something I never thought it would be, and now I have my own space to create in my own studio. Also, everything was handmade by me!
VM: Wow, so it was all handmade from scratch? That takes a lot of skill!
ST: Yes, being essentially a one-woman team from the very beginning, I would make them out of clay, polish and package them myself. Everything is made to order. Now I’ve moved to experimenting with acrylic based products, which is a lot easier for me!
VM: I’m glad to hear that! And as the earrings are all made to order I’m assuming KHULA is using a no-waste model, so you must be quite a sustainable brand?
ST: I’m looking into ways I can be more sustainable. That is why my latest drop this February will be a pre order restock, so people will be able to reserve their earrings before they’re made.
VM: I know you mentioned KHULA being your lockdown baby, which is quite an impressive feat. How would you describe the experience of your lockdown in three words?
ST: Impactful, frustrating and insightful.
VM: I definitely agree with all of those three, and ‘frustrating’ is an understatement - June 21st can’t come soon enough!
What first attracted you to jewellery as a mode of design and what are your main Inspirations behind the KHULA designs themselves?
ST: My relationship with jewellery always began with statement jewellery as I adore statement pieces. Growing up as a plus-size woman, my fashion options were very limited. I would turn to jewellery to brighten up the dullest outfits. I even remember being in school, people would be able to recognise me from behind because I’d always have a slick bun and statement hoops.
In terms of the KHULA designs, I’ve been inspired by 70s graphic design. It was such a cool era! Also, I really admire different cultures, such as tribes within East Africa and South Africa (where my parents are from). Taking inspiration from my heritage and putting that into my brand makes me feel so much closer to my roots in a way that I know how, and a language that I understand which is jewellery. I’m very interested in Black people from different eras and celebrating them and their looks.
VM: Yes I definitely resonate with that also being an East African (Kenyan) myself, I always try to find ways to connect to my culture. I’ve been wearing this bracelet made from brass which was a present from a family friend back home in Nairobi. Wearing it always makes me feel closer to home. So what are hopes for 2021?
ST: We’re all just looking forward to socialising, getting back out and having more fun. As individuals we have all learned so much about ourselves, so 2021 will be a test to that. And for KHULA I just hope it grows and I want it to do well. I don’t want it to be just another earring brand. I’m looking at getting into fashion and home decor. I want KHULA to be a safe space, gender-neutral and welcoming. You don’t have to look a certain way or be part of a certain crowd to be a part of it. KHULA is a non-exclusive, inclusive club.
VM: The non-exclusive element to your brand reminds me of TELFAR, their brand motto is ‘not for you, for everyone’. I think this attitude makes brands much more accessible to the ‘everyman’ and removes the snobbery out of fashion.
ST: I’m so gassed because I love TELFAR, I’m a proud owner of their medium tan shopping bag.
VM: Amazing, I recently purchased the small baby pink shopping bag and it hasn’t left my side! Speaking of Black-owned brands such as TELFAR, why do you think it is important to support and promote Black-owned brands such as KHULA?
ST: In the handmade crafts industry, I didn’t see a lot of Black-owned brands. I want to remind people they have a reason to be in this space and they are also as valid as their white counterparts. I’m also just extremely proud to be Black.